Well, we didn't make it

Thanks to the first August blizzard in 4 years on Mt Rainier, we did not make it to the summit. We started with rain, turning to sleet, then snow on the way up to Camp Muir. Needless to say, we were a soaking mess by the time we arrived. We'd planned ahead and brought additional dry gear. However, the winds kicked up and the snow started flying. When we left at 1:30am to try to push for the summit, we were in blizzard and white-out conditions. The RMI Guides couldn't even find the route (flags were buried or blown away), nor see the crevasses, so we turned back and arrived at Camp Muir again at 3:30am. The weather didn't clear in time for our window to summit, so we headed down in the snowstorm starting at 8am. Looks like we'll all be trying again, probably in 2 years. Damn!

Here's a link to a video I took of the winds at Camp Muir. This was actually before they got really bad and the snow got worse. Below are some pics we took as well.

Indian Peaks Wilderness-Crooked Couloir Trip

On Saturday, May 17th, John, Mark and I "officially started" our alpine training in advance of Ranier. First real hike of any distance for us this season. Introductions left to right - Mark (Ranier trip), Sean (friend of ours and experienced backcountry guy who graciously agreed to lead the trip and teach us the basics of snow conditions, snow climbing and glissading), and John (Ranier fella too). It's 4:30AM at the park-n-ride meeting spot....so this is what they mean by an "alpine start". Ugghhh...


5:45AM at the winter closure of the Brainard Lake Rec Area. It is three miles up a paved road to the Mitchell Lake Trailhead. We brought our bikes to ride up to the trailhead and shave some much needed time. Locked and loaded for the ride.


Let the biking fun begin...three miles of pedaling and we'll be at the trailhead.


Well, perhaps we won't be biking to the trailhead after all! Yes, that is the road. Seems the record snowfall in Colorado this year, coupled with the lack of a plow, will make this bike attempt a bit of an adventure.


Our destination as seen from Brainard Lake-Mt. Audobon 13,223'


The road around Brainard Lake and to the Mitchell Lake Trailhead dives deeper into the trees. Based upon our consistent "hike-a-bike" trip up the road, it's time to ditch the bikes and start walking. The bikes are locked to the tree to keep the nefarious Brainard Lake bike thief from ruining an otherwise glorious day.


At the Mitchell Lake Trailhead. The IPW backcountry sign provides many a rule and admonishment on what one can and can't do. Once again, the MAN speaks. Those that know me, know how I feel about that! :-)

Time to don the snowshoes and begin the 2-3 mile trek to Blue Lake and the beginning of the ascent.


After approx 1 mile of stomping, we arrive at Mitchell Lake. Looking into the Blue Lake basin, you see Mt. Toll, 12,979' in the center of the shot, with Little Pawnee Peak, 12,466' in the left foreground. Mt. Audobon is in the right side of the cirque, but not visible in this picture.


Short break at Mitchell Lake. At left, Sean ponders the beauty of the cirque. At right, John ponders a direct route across the hopefully frozen solid lake. At center, Mark finds relief and ponders the "small things" in life.


Which way now? Heading into the Blue Lake Basin. Mt. Audobon visible in upper right hand corner of picture.


Mt. Toll rises prominently in the cirques west end. Notice the tons of snow that still remains in mid-May. Record runoff is anticipated and the paddlers are salivating at the thought. The foolish and inexperienced had better get their affairs in order now.


Onward and upward. Mark and John trudge on.


We arrive at Blue Lake. It's break time. Time to refuel, drop the snow shoes and reconfigure the gear for the boot pack up the Crooked Couloir.


Let the fun begin! Sean, Mark and John start the climb to the Crooked Couloir. From this point, we have only about 3/4 of a mile to go. HOWEVER, we still have approx 2000' of elevation to gain. Oooofff. The Crooked Couloir is visible at the far left of the picture. An unnamed couloir is seen at the right.


Quick break...this boot packing stuff is hard work. Notice the recent wet snow slide at the right of Sean and Mark. Hmmmmm..... At this point, we turned hard left and continued the climb up the couloir visible on the left. No more pictures of the climb...it was a methodical step up...repeat. The camera never left the pack at this point. :-) We alternated leading to conserve enery. At approx. 12,600', we were running out of time and the snow was softening considerably. Sean recommended that it might be a good time to turn around, and enjoy the glissade back to Blue Lake. The three winter backcountry neophytes gladly took the recommendation, looking forward to the childhood fun of sliding down the snow.


Now THIS is fun!!! John demonstrating fine glissading technique. After Sean gave us the finer points of sliding and most importantly self arrest, we slid down the approximately 1300' feet of couloir in no time. This is the way to travel! :-)


Enjoying post-glissade chow at Blue Lake. While we were sitting there, we heard a dull roar, which at first I attributed to an airplane. Instead, it was an avalanche on the south side of the cirque. We watched a group of skiers we leapfrogged with on the couloir descend from Audobon in fine fashion. Back on go the snowshoes and we headed down the trail, to the bikes, to the trucks and ultimately, to the beers. All told, the trip was about 12 miles from start to finish. Great day...great training...let's do it again in a couple of weeks. Hope you enjoyed the documentary and the climbing juices are starting to flow.

Training?

Ok, I want to hear who's been training? I've heard rumors that one east coast guy is running something silly like 50 miles a week. I think he'll be fine! LOL

Me, I just completed the Indy 1/2 Marathon. Had flu that week so I was quite happy to run slow 9 minute mile averages. Next weekend I ran 10 mile hill run in Lemont Ill. I forgot how much running hills sucks. However, managed another exact 9 minute mile average for the 10 miles. I may be slow, but I'm consistent.

So, what's everyone else up to?

Great Mount Rainier links

I found some links today while trying out a new web search site at Mahalo. I think this may be my new favorite search engine. The best link is this climbing blog which is kept up to date on all activities about climbing Mt Rainier, including some interesting stories about recent people getting lost and having to bivy overnight or getting stuck and having to be saved. Last is the link to the Mt Rainier National Park info. Cool reading. I know I'll be visiting the blog when we get closer to our climb this summer.

Bunkhouse prep

Thanks to John we won't be car-camping the nights before the actual climb. We'll be staying at the 1912 bunkhouse (thankfully renovated in 1990) near our actual Guide location. The name of the place is Whittaker's Bunkhouse.

Diamox

Anyone heard of Diamox to help fend off altitude sickness? Never used the stuff, but thought it might benefit a flat lander like me.

Gear - rent vs buy & what to bring

Ok, a few of the guys who haven't climbed big mountains as much as some of us, asked me what I was planning on renting/buying vs. bringing. Here's my first take. Feel free to comment and respond with anything I've forgotten.

Of course, the RMI site says to bring all this stuff: http://www.rmiguides.com/rainier/4_day_sc_equip.html

The stuff I am acquiring is:
- ice axe (bought last week)
- bigger gators (my gators are too short for snow)
- undergarments ( figured I'd update my long underwear to more modern, wicking, material)
- boots (my boots are old, so I'm looking at getting new one's now that I can break in by August)
- new lighter snow pants or something better to hike in than snow pants

Things I'm looking at renting are:
- crampons
- helmet
- climbing harness

Things I already have are (and no, I didn't remember this from memory -- I have a cheat list that I just copied and pasted here):
- large 5000 cu in backpack
- trekking poles
- low temperature sleeping bag
- sleeping pad (although looks like we don't need due to sleeping in hut...but I'll still bring and just leave behind if don't need)
- tent (although looks like we don't need due to sleeping in hut...but I'll still bring and just leave behind if don't' need)
- stove (although looks like ....." ....." ......" )
- titanium pots
- titanium spork
- helmet light
- wrap around sunglasses that are polarized
- ski goggles
- ski hat
- multiple layers of clothing (I'm not doing the down parka, just layers); e.g. multi-layer coat, underwear, pants, shirts, fleece, etc.
- backpack rain cover
- pillow
- rain gear
- camelback for holding water
- glove liners
- snow gloves
- whistle
- baseball hat
- suntan lotion
- toilet paper
- toothbrush
- toothpaste
- allergy medicine
- Kleenex
- cigars
- lighter (one that works at altitude -- generic bic works best)
- 5 mile walkie talkies (2)
- digital camera
- extra batteries for helmet light
- blister repair kit
- drinking cup
- knee brace (I sometimes have knee problems)
- Deet (probably won't need but I'll bring just in case)
- Liquor (something that can be ported, and drank warm)
- wash rag
- towel
- contacts
- contact carrying case & solution
- watch
- coffee packages